Anita DAUKŠTE, specially for LA.lv
The capital of Turkey, Istanbul, with 20 million inhabitants, ranks among the five largest cities in the world, and I dare say that visiting it is on the list of every self-respecting tourist and travel enthusiast. The cradle of modern Christian churches, the flower of the Ottoman Empire, the crossroads of Europe and Asia on both sides of the Bosphorus and a modern city that changes with the times. In spring, megapolis guests can enjoy it in three dimensions:
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both the modern side of the city and the historical heritage, and to enjoy the wonderful Turkish cuisine in restaurants, the scenic parks of Istanbul, the Turkish bath or hammam, as well as to indulge in a shopping frenzy – both in traditional souvenir markets and giant shopping malls.
Istanbul – for those who enjoy taste and nature
The rich Turkish cuisine leaves no taste buds indifferent. But every time you visit Turkey, you can discover something new. For example, to taste the famous Turkish breakfast not in the execution of the hotel kitchen, but prepared according to the recipes of the palace of the Turkish sultans. There is such an opportunity in Istanbul – in the Balat district (historically a Jewish district in the city), which is a paradise of artistic shops and cherished street cats, in a modest street, there is “Grandma’s Velvet Cafe” or Grandmother’s Velvet Cafe.
The traditional Turkish breakfast is served here in a particularly refined way: the taste is such that you can lick your fingers, but even more delicious is the story of the owner Yusup, who accompanies the meal. Grandmother Velvet (that’s her nickname because she had velvety skin) is a lady of Sudanese descent whose African ancestor was the chief cook at the Ottoman Empire’s Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. The family has preserved the old palace recipes, and now guests can enjoy them – the traditional Turkish breakfast of four types of cheese, special jams, omelette, hummus, olives, sun-dried tomatoes and bread rolls baked in various ways… The saliva runs in the mouth, remembering the taste. And all this is served in fine porcelain and crystal dishes of the last century.
The cafe does not have a Michelin Guide rating star, but it doesn’t need to, it’s delicious all the same. In total, Istanbul has 1 restaurant with 2 Michelin stars, 6 restaurants with 1 Michelin star, and 52 restaurants recommended by this world rating.
I would recommend sticking to the traditions: for example, enjoy the view of the famous Galata Bridge, the Bosphorus Bay and the traditional, bustling Sultanahmet district in Istanbul from the restaurants on the top floor of a building in the Galata district. It is difficult for a tourist to find these restaurants without recommendations – in the small side streets of the main streets, there is nothing to indicate that there is a wonderful restaurant with a view, a terrace and exquisite cuisine on the last or penultimate floor of one of them. For example, Ali Ocakbasi (Karaköy) restaurant in Beyoğlu district is “hidden”. Here, on the other hand, the taste buds are tantalized by a Turkish-style dinner, with different flavors of grilled meats and traditional salads and purees.
You could safely go to Istanbul only for gastro tourism, but you want something not only for the body, but also for the spirit, right? Initially, maybe just something as pleasing to the eye as Istanbul’s parks with blooming tulips.
Tulips, tulips and views of the Bosphorus
The tulip flower is one of the important symbols of Turkish traditional culture, both drawn and sung, and made the “brand name” of the Ottoman sultans of Turkey. The homeland of tulips is Turkey, only later Europeans, who got to know the magic of this flower, brought it to Austria, Vienna, and then they began to “tame” it in European gardens. There is a frenzy of tulips blooming in the parks of Istanbul in the spring – the gorgeous plantings dazzle the eyes. In Emirgan Park, there are not only magnificent plantings in honor of tulips, but also the Tulip Museum, which collects art and practical objects related to the symbolism of tulips. “Lale” – pronounce these letters so softly, as if you want to caress the palate with your tongue – that’s how soft the word tulip sounds in Turkish. They bloom so luxuriously and majestically in large-scale plantings.
If you don’t make it to the tulips – nothing. Istanbul’s parks provide refreshment on hot days and are a favorite place for walks – not only for tourists, but also for locals.
The obligatory itinerary for visiting Istanbul also includes a trip by ferry or boat along the Bosphorus. It is very beneficial that you will have chosen one of the hotels in the Galata district as your place of accommodation – you do not need a guide or any special service – go to the public pier where the locals go by ferry from the European part of Istanbul to the Asian side and buy a ticket for a regular trip on the bay. There will be an excursion on the boat, and you will be able to buy a Turkish roll with sesame seeds – simit – pieces of which can be thrown to the seagulls, which follow the entertainment of tourists and locals on the water and are already waiting for their portion of the bun with wings waving and screaming, accompanied by the roar of the boat’s engine.
The buildings on both sides of the Bosphorus give a glimpse into the life of the wealthiest part of Turkish society: it costs a lot of money to live here. Even unimaginably harsh. For example, in the former sultan’s palace in the Besiktas district (Besiktas is a football club, you say? Yes, but the name of the club is the name of a neighborhood in Istanbul) – the Ciragan Palace Kempinski hotel is located. One night in a room (there are five in the hotel, each of which includes several halls and rooms) costs 17 thousand US dollars. Who will pay that kind of money? It will pay, though: a Turkish billionaire lived in a palace with a view of the Bosphorus for even 6 months from the place.
Real estate prices on the shores of the Bosphorus reach astronomical sums. But! A number of Turkey’s most prestigious colleges and universities are also located next to the luxurious palaces, so there is also an opportunity to enjoy the view if you study well. If you are neither rich nor a student, but a guest of the city, I recommend the Ruby Restaurant in the Besiktas district itself: good food and a beautiful view of one of the three Bosphorus rope bridges.
For body, spirit and shopping pleasure
Almost everyone who has been to Turkey must have enjoyed the spirit of a Turkish bath or hammam. Because it is impossible to understand Turkish culture without it. Let’s just say that every hotel has a hammam and, after all, our own spa is something similar. Similar, yes, but not the same. The procedure will include the fact that you will be scrubbed of dust and dirt, nicely steamed in steam and finally massaged with aromatic oils. Guided from one hammam room to another, holding the hand like an overgrown baby, until you feel as pampered and purified as if you came from the mother’s body. Unfortunately, at the moment, locals do not work in hammams – mostly immigrants from Southeast Asian countries, but this does not reduce the quality of the service. Look for old hammams, not newly built ones, there will be a more authentic bath ritual. The price of a good hammam could be around 100 euros in the summer season, but cheaper in the winter.
A physically cleansed person can go to get rid not only of old skin, but also of money – that is, visit the traditional markets of Istanbul: the Grand Bazaar and the Egyptian or spice market. The Great Market is one of the oldest covered markets in the world and it is more than 500 years old, trading started in 1455. Located in Istanbul’s Sultanahmet district and spanning one block to the Galata Bridge. The Grand Bazaar is one of the most visited objects in the world – on average, around 400,000 people pass through it every day. If the visit falls on a holiday, it seems that there are more people than goods, although this is of course not true.
In fact, it is worth going to the Grand Bazaar not only for shopping. It is unlikely that you will be ready to buy all the oriental souvenirs that are offered there, or you will go shopping and go crazy with gold jewelry. As a guest, you can also simply dazzle your eyes with oriental luxury, but you can also enjoy the thrill of haggling by haggling for the best price. And remember – in the eastern market, if you are quoted a price of an item that is 5 times higher than the value, do not think that you are being cheated. You are tested – how successful you are in bargaining with the seller and being able to justify your rightness. Learn it – you will be successful, if not – the seller. But I can confirm that the prices for souvenirs in this market are also much cheaper and the selection is larger than in small souvenir shops or at the airport.
I definitely recommend that you include a concert at the Atatürk Cultural Center in your Istanbul visit. The cultural center is located in the Besiktas district next to the famous Taksim Square and at the beginning of Brīvības (Istiklal) street. It has several concert halls, a theater, art galleries and workshops. Mostly guest artists perform and you can enjoy world-class classical music, theater, opera, etc. here. at almost ridiculous prices. The most expensive (!) concert ticket costs 10 euros, the cheapest 4 euros. Why? The state finances so that the people enjoy good art and music.
About what else is worth seeing, enjoying and learning in Istanbul – in one of the next articles. But thanks to Turkish Airlines and Turkish Tourism Development Agency for this.
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